For roses there are three types of pruning:
- Formative training and pruning of young climbing roses
- Routine pruning of climbing roses.
- Renovating overgrown climbing roses.
Formative training and pruning of young climbing roses
Climbing roses are not self-clinging and need supports of trellis or horizontal wires to which the shoots can be tied.
If training roses up arches or pergolas, twist the main shoots gently around the uprights, keeping them as horizontal as possible, to encourage flowering shoots to form low down.
if you can't bend them horizontally, try to keep an angle below 45 degree.
Remove dead, damaged, diseased or weak growth, and deadhead during the flowering season to encourage further flowering.
Routine pruning of climbing roses.
Climbers are routinely pruned in winter, after the flowers have faded, between December and February.
First remove dead, diseased or dying branches.
Then tie in any new shoots needed to fill supports.
Prune any flowered side shoots back by two thirds of their length.
If the plant is congested, cut out any old branches from the base to promote new growth.
Renovating overgrown climbing roses.
Renovation can be carried out at any time between late autumn and late winter
Remove all dead, diseased, dying and weak shoots
Cut some of the old woody branches to the ground, retaining a maximum of six young, vigorous stems.
Shorten side shoots on the remaining branches and prune back the tips by one third to one half, to encourage branching
After pruning, spread rose fertiliser over the soil and mulch them with garden compost or rotted manure.
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